CAPRI
Once infamous as the "Island of Sin," the Isle of Capri is now simply a very desirable place to visit and a romantic spot for honeymooners. For centuries, it was a retreat of sorts. Pirates hid their loot there, and Emperor Tiberius used to hold orgies on the island. (East of town are the ruins of Villa Jovis, where he spent the last, debauched years of his reign. Read Robert Graves' /, Claudius to get an idea of what went on.) These days it's a retreat for the young jet set and assorted Hollywood celebrities. Don't expect lush tropical scenery. But do expect Old World charm, gorgeous grottoes and silver- and rose-colored cliffs plunging straight into clear, blue water. Also expect superb restaurants, good shopping, water sports, castles, churches, wonderful streets in which to stroll and some of the highest prices in Italy.
The main village on the island, where most of the shops and restaurants are found, is also called Capri. It is very chic to have an after-dinner drink in the famous piazzetta, the small square in the center of town. Higher up in the hills is another village, called Anacapri, from which you can take a chairlift to the summit of one of the highest peaks on the island to enjoy the wonderful view over the sea and the Bay of Naples. Also in Anacapri is the beautiful Villa San Michele, which houses the art collection of Swedish doctor Axel Munthe. (Read his wonderful autobiography, The Story of San Michele, for a good introduction to the island and the special significance of the villa itself.)
Visit and swim at the justly famous Blue Grotto and the Natural Arch. It is also possible to tour the lesser-known grottoes of Capri by hiring a fisherman's boat from Marina Piccola. Although there are no sandy beaches on Capri, there are thin rocky strips at Marina Piccola and at the

Faraglioni (picturesque rock formations off the eastern tip of the island once used by the Romans to hold beacons for sailors). At both places you can lie out on the rocks and swim safely.
Even though the people (called Capresi) have seen many tourists come and go, you'll find them surprisingly nice and helpful. Capri is informal, but not that informal— bring a coat and tie if you plan to dine in the nicer restaurants. And, while there are topless beaches, total nudity is not generally accepted. The best months to visit Capri are May, June and September. In July and August, the island tends to be overwhelmed by tourists, foreigners and Italians alike, especially the huge tour groups. The island can be seen on a day trip from the mainland, but two nights are preferable.
If you've already been to Capri, consider heading to its lesser-known but equally captivating sister island, Ischia. Both islands can be reached by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples or Sorrento. 15 mi/25 km south of Naples, in the Bay of Naples.