Monterey
Carmel
This exclusive town, originally an artists colony, is just
a few miles south of Monterey and has excellent shops and
restaurants. The town has a refreshingly calm atmosphere
that results, in part, from strict zoning laws than ban
neon, traffic lights and many olher things that typically
go with urban development. (The town also seems to have
banned empty parking spaces: Expect to spend some time searching
for one.) Carmel received a lot of press in the mid 1980s
when Clint Eastwood was its mayor.
Visit the Carmel Mission {Mission San Carlos Borromeo Del
Rio Carmelo, to be exact), built in 1793. Father Junipero
Serra, the priest who built the string of missions along
the California coast, is buried there and Pope John XXIII
elevated the mission to the rank of "minor basilica"
in 1960. It now contains a museum that covers the history
of the California missions. Also worth a stop in Carmel
is medieval-looking Tor House, the hand-built home of noted
poet Robinson Jeffers (tours available by advance reservation).
If beautiful white-sand beaches are a passion, sample lovely
Carmel Beach City Park (overcrowded on summer days but perfect
for an evening stroll) or Carmel River State Beach (where
locals go to get away from tourists).
Better yet, head 4 mi/6 km south to Point Lobos Stale Reserve.
The beaches there, like those in Big Sur, are dramatically
beautiful. Plan to spend a day at Point Lobos, but be sure
to go early—only 450 people are allowed in at a time,
and if it has reached that capacity, you may have to wait
for someone to leave before you can enter. Its walking trails
capture the best of the entire region, passing
rocky ocean cliffs. Take along binoculars to look for otters,
sea lions and whales. China Cove's beach is one of the few
places along the northern coast that is (relatively) free
of dangerous riptides, and Whalers Cove is one of the safest
places for scuba diving. If you go into the water, don't
disturb even a rock in the tidal pools—this is a delicately
balanced (and protected) ecosystem.
Just inland from Carmel proper is expansive Carmel Valley,
an upscale resort and residential area particularly famous
for its golf and tennis resorts. In and near Carmel Valley
are a number of Monterey Wine Country wineries, which are
gaining distinction in the industry.
From July to August, Carmel hosts the Carme! Bach Festival,
concerts and events honoring the great composer and his
contemporaries. 80 mi/130 km south of San Francisco.
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